Flower care

Large Trees Proper pruning also helps to prevent injury and damage to life and property. This usually involves the removal of large branches or limbs from trees. Where tree limbs are near power lines, call the power company and ask them to remove them. Do not try to remove tree limbs from power lines yourself. Low-hanging branches may cause injury to individuals mowing the lawn or walking on the street. Also, branches sometimes rub against the house and roof. To remove the branches that are over 1" in diameter, use the double cut method. If the double cut method is not used, the branch will tear and splinter the trunk. This removes a large portion of the bark, causing a large wound which calluses with difficulty and may further result in permanent damage to the tree. (See Fig. 11.) To double cut, first cut halfway on the underside of the limb (about one foot from the tree trunk). Then (several inches further out) make a second cut through on the upper part of the limb (See Fig. 12). When the branch is removed, there is no splintering of the main tree trunk. Then remove the stub by conventional methods, taking care not to cut into the collar. (See “General Pruning Procedures”). Beware of rejuvenation techniques sometimes used on large old trees. Homeowners are sometimes “conned” into having the tops of old trees completely cut back, leaving only the stubs. These stubs eventually decay. Also, since the tree is in such a weakened condition, it may die prematurely. If you have large limbs that need to be removed, secure the professional services of an arborist. An arborist can drop work a tree, that is, lower

Evergreen Shrubs and Trees With evergreen shrubs, avoid shearing to artificial shapes. If the evergreen plant has a soft, feathery appearance, do not cut it square or make a round shrub out of it. Prune using the thinning technique, thus keeping the natural shape of the evergreen. Remember, the non-green portion of needle-leaved evergreen branches does not normally put out new branches. Therefore do not cut branches back to the old wood. Reduce new growth annually, and when removing the larger branches for thinning, cut close to the main trunk, leaving no stubs. Heavy thinning is needed only every few years. With certain evergreens such as yews (Taxus), a new flush of growth will occur in the early fall. Head back these long shoots to keep the plants in shape. Broadleafed evergreen shrubs are pruned in the same manner as narrowleafed evergreens, by thinning and heading back. Light pruning every year is preferred, but heavy pruning every three years is acceptable. Rhododendron species benefit from removal of flower heads immediately after flowering. Most types, such as hollies, pyracantha, azaleas, and euonymus, can be cut back severely, but avoid cutting all the way to the ground. Holly trees may be pruned at Christmas time. To thicken the new growth of coniferous trees such as pines, spruce, or fir, pinch out 1/2 of the candle (the new growth) when it is approximately 2" long in the spring. Do not use shears, since they damage the needles that are around the candle and cause the cut edges to turn brown. This gives the tree an unsightly appearance. Do not top or remove the central leader, if the natural growth habit of the tree is desired. (See Fig. 6.) If the terminal of a pine or spruce has been lost, it is necessary to aid the plant in growing a new terminal shoot. Without assistance, a single terminal will probably not be re-established, and multiple leaders will result. To form a new terminal, bend one of the youngest lateral branches near the terminal into an upright position.

Procedures for Pruning Specific Trees and Shrubs Deciduous Shrubs and Trees Always allow a shrub or tree to develop its natural shape, except when special effects are desirable, such as for hedges. “Haircut” pruning should be avoided. Perfectly sheared globes and squares make a mockery of the plant’s natural form and beauty. (See Fig. 5.) Instead, use the thinning technique on both shrubs and trees. Cut the branches at different lengths, 1/4" above an active bud. Remove twigs or branches selectively and thus reduce overcrowding. Some stems should also be removed at ground level. The length of new shoots should be reduced 1/3 to 1/2 of their length, which induces side shoots to develop. Cutting above a bud prevents dieback of the stem and encourages a new branch to develop from the bud. The haircut technique causes a dense growth at the ends of the pruned branches which shades the rest of the plant, thus causing the plant to eventually develop a leggy appearance. If a shrub develops a weak, dense growth, thin out many of the smaller branches and twigs. This promotes the vigorous growth of the remaining branches. Also remove branches which tend to rub against one another, opening wounds for the entrance of disease. Always remove dead, damaged, or diseased branches and limbs from established plants as well as newly planted trees and shrubs. The plant should then develop new, stronger growth, free of diseases. Also, remove dead flower branches, dead flowers, and old fruit stocks as soon as the flowers have wilted or the fruit has dropped. This stimulates new growth and helps to make a stronger tree or shrub. It also encourages plants such as rhododendrons to produce more flower buds for next season

Pruning in Anticipation of Growth Stimulation In general, except for the cases already cited, the best time to prune is when the plant will recover the fastest. Severe pruning should be done just before regrowth starts in the spring so bare stubs will be hidden quickly. Pruning in late summer should be avoided since it stimulates succulent growth which may not harden sufficiently to avoid winter dieback. Storm-damaged plants should be pruned as soon after the damage occurs as possible.

Pruning to Maximize Fruiting Display Shrubs or trees that are prized for their fruit should be pruned after the fruit drops or is eaten by wildlife. Although they may flower early in the season, the fruit should be allowed to develop. After the fruit has lost its appeal, then prune. Examples of plants in this group are certain viburnums and hawthorns. Pruning Needle (Coniferous) Evergreens To promote a compact plant, coniferous evergreens can be pruned in late spring as the new branches elongate, but before they become stiff. Otherwise, they, like broadleaved evergreens, can be pruned whenever the wood is not frozen. However, coniferous types will generally not develop new shoots on older wood, so it isn’t advisable to cut back beyond the living foliage portion of the branches. Pruning Trees Known as “Bleeders” Some deciduous trees have an exceptionally heavy sap flow in the early spring. If cuts are made then, the trees will “bleed.” While this sap loss does not injure the tree, it can be objectionable aesthetically and cause problems for pedestrians, automobiles, etc., passing underneath. “Bleeding” can be avoided by pruning in mid-summer or late fall. Maple, birch, dogwood, elm, walnut, and yellowwood are examples of trees best treated this way.

Pruning According to Season of Bloom Trees and shrubs that flower before the end of June should be pruned immediately after flowering. Flower buds develop during the previous season’s growth, thus, the flowers for the current year’s bloom developed last year and overwintered in the bud. If pruned before spring flowering, the flower buds will be removed, thus eliminating flowering. Table 1 shows examples of plants which should be pruned after flowering. Other trees and shrubs, those which flower after the end of June, should be pruned in winter or early spring before new growth starts. These plants develop flower buds during the spring of the flowering season. Examples of plants of this type are shown in Table 2. Certain plants may be lightly pruned both before and after flowering. This often increases flower and fruit production, and several may produce a second bloom during the year. Table 3 shows examples of this plant type. In any of the foregoing cases, the timing of pruning is based on common sense to maximize flowering of a plant which was planted for its flowers. If your pruning is timed such that flowering is sacrificed, it will not be detrimental to the plant’s survival. It will simply mean a loss of one season’s floral display

Times to Prune for Specific Purposes Timing of pruning is based on the flowering, fruiting, or growth habits of a plant, its tendency to “bleed,” and the fact that pruning usually stimulates a flush of re-growth. Most plants can be pruned at almost any time of year without jeopardizing basic survival. However, it is preferable to prune specific plants at specific points in the year.

Myths About Pruning There are a number of myths and misconceptions about pruning which should be laid to rest. Pruning is difficult. Pruning is straightforward if one knows a little about how the plant grows and what it should look like when the process is complete. Plants will die if pruned at the wrong time of year. Plants may be injured, but seldom, if ever, are they killed by poorly timed pruning. All pruning must be done during the winter. Actually, many plants are best pruned during the growing season. Topping shade trees will keep the trees from causing damage to the home. Shoots which grow after topping are weaker than the original limbs. They will be more likely to split off and cause damage unless they are removed every few years. Also, wood rots are more likely to be a problem in topped trees, resulting in poorer tree health and greater likelihood of limb breakage. Removing a tree is a crime against nature. If a plant is in the wrong place, from a functional or aesthetic viewpoint, it is by definition a weed and can be removed. This is especially true when a tree must be mutilated beyond recognition to eliminate the problem it is causing. Most trees need pruning. Actually, mature trees seldom do. Young trees usually benefit because pruning helps in establishing the basic branch structure and in overcoming transplanting shock. Hedge shears are all you need to prune shrubs. Hedge shears are intended to prune hedges, only! Using them on shrubs not intended as hedge plants destroys the natural grace and beauty of the plants. Anyone with a pickup truck and a chain saw is a qualified pruner. Indiana has no licensure for tree pruners, thus some individuals doing pruning work may not be knowledgeable or skilled in proper techniques. Never hire someone who stops and tells you that your plants need pruning and that he will do it right away. Obtain references, and see their work first! All cut surfaces must be treated with tree paint. While long recommended, the evidence is conflicting on the use of tree paint. Largely, its use should be thought of as cosmetic, helping to hide light-colored scars.

Reasons to Prune Pruning is necessary to maintain a healthy, vigorous tree or shrub. Specifically, pruning is practiced to: Maintain or reduce plant size. Pruning can prevent a plant from overgrowing its space in the landscape and eliminates the need for drastic cutting of crowded, overgrown plants. It can allow for growth of plants under or adjacent to the pruned plant. It can also serve to reduce leaf area on newly planted trees and shrubs. This promotes survival through transplanting and consequent root loss. Remove undesirable growth. Pruning can encourage plant vigor through the removal of weak, overcrowded growth. Such thinning often improves the visual balance or symmetry of the plant. Remove dead, diseased, or broken branches. Pruning will aid in maintaining the shape, vigor, and health of the plant. Stimulate flowering and fruiting. Removal of the current year’s old, faded flowers and fruit clusters will promote flower buds for the following season. Rejuvenate and restore old plants to vigorous growth. Proper pruning can restore a youthful, natural growth habit in certain overgrown shrubs. Prevent damage to life and property. Pruning can minimize the hazard of limbs interfering with power lines or overgrowing structures. It can also remove weak crotches before limbs break in strong winds and open blocked sight lines caused by overhanging limbs at driveways or street corners. Shape plants in an artificial form. Pruning and shearing can be used to shape plants as hedges or for rigidly formal espaliers or topiaries

Correct pruning is an essential maintenance practice for trees and shrubs in the home landscape. However, most homeowners regard pruning with considerable, though unnecessary, apprehension. Pruning is not difficult if you understand the basics, learn why, when, and how to prune. Trees and shrubs should be examined annually for pruning requirements. Too often, pruning is ignored for several years. Then some trees and most shrubs become overgrown and often weak, making drastic pruning a necessity to bring the plant back to usefulness. Regular pruning will help keep the plant in bounds and keep its growth vigorous. To prune successfully, you must 1) know why you are pruning, 2) be correct in your timing, and 3) follow proper techniques using proper tools: why, when, and how.