Flower care

Evergreen Shrubs and Trees With evergreen shrubs, avoid shearing to artificial shapes. If the evergreen plant has a soft, feathery appearance, do not cut it square or make a round shrub out of it. Prune using the thinning technique, thus keeping the natural shape of the evergreen. Remember, the non-green portion of needle-leaved evergreen branches does not normally put out new branches. Therefore do not cut branches back to the old wood. Reduce new growth annually, and when removing the larger branches for thinning, cut close to the main trunk, leaving no stubs. Heavy thinning is needed only every few years. With certain evergreens such as yews (Taxus), a new flush of growth will occur in the early fall. Head back these long shoots to keep the plants in shape. Broadleafed evergreen shrubs are pruned in the same manner as narrowleafed evergreens, by thinning and heading back. Light pruning every year is preferred, but heavy pruning every three years is acceptable. Rhododendron species benefit from removal of flower heads immediately after flowering. Most types, such as hollies, pyracantha, azaleas, and euonymus, can be cut back severely, but avoid cutting all the way to the ground. Holly trees may be pruned at Christmas time. To thicken the new growth of coniferous trees such as pines, spruce, or fir, pinch out 1/2 of the candle (the new growth) when it is approximately 2" long in the spring. Do not use shears, since they damage the needles that are around the candle and cause the cut edges to turn brown. This gives the tree an unsightly appearance. Do not top or remove the central leader, if the natural growth habit of the tree is desired. (See Fig. 6.) If the terminal of a pine or spruce has been lost, it is necessary to aid the plant in growing a new terminal shoot. Without assistance, a single terminal will probably not be re-established, and multiple leaders will result. To form a new terminal, bend one of the youngest lateral branches near the terminal into an upright position.